Creating an 18th Century
'English Gown'
Open faced gown with robings and pleated back based on an original
c. 1765-1770
The idea of fast fashion is not a new concept. An 18th century woman could visit her dress maker, have her dress draped directly on her body within an hour or so, and return a week later to pick up her completed dress.
A century before the invention of the sewing machine, all clothing and other textile goods in the 18th century were hand sewn using a variety of quick but strong stitches. An accomplished dress maker would employ or apprentice younger women to do much of the tedious stitching, whilst she focused on the designing and finer sewing.
Choosing the pattern and Inspiration
Whilst dress makers in the 18th century would have draped the dress directly on the person, I required the use of a pattern. The pattern used was taken directly from an original gown dated between the years 1765 and 1770. The pattern consists of an open gown with double sleeve flounces, a matching stomacher, and petticoat.
Though Polly's family was solidly middle class (her father had been a Merchant, and her mother ran a lodging house, making £17 per year in 1767 (about £33,800 in 2018 money), the portrait shows a rather plain 'rust' coloured dress.
For inspiration on the style of dress, I studied existing gowns from various museums. Based on what can be seen of the dress in her portrait, and the way her personality comes across in surviving letters, I believe Polly would have chosen an older style dress for her July 1770 wedding, possibly even one she already owned.
Chinese silk-damask dress, British, c. 1760, © MOL
Polly's dress
