Eighteenth Century Dressmakers
Fabric such as silk could take weeks just to set up the looms with the chosen design, before being woven; often producing less than a yard a day. Cloth was an expensive commodity, and rather than risk it being ruined by an unskilled hand, even the working class ordered their clothes from professionals.
For women at the beginning of the 18th century, the job of making and altering clothing was second only to domestic service. But labour was cheap; a dress could be had for about £14, with 10s being for the labour.
'Young Woman at Work', c1725-1778. Francois Duparc, Public Domain
Women in the sewing trade came from various backgrounds, as did their clients. Though there was no guarantee of success, whether or not a woman could be self-sufficient or barely make ends meet, depended on how skilled she was. To succeed they needed to learn the art of cutting; namely how to create a dress by draping the cloth directly on a body, without the use of a premade pattern, whilst being careful not to waste fabric. This skill could only be learned through obtaining a good apprenticeship. Most women learned the basics of sewing at home but cutting had to be learned hands on. Apprentices could pay a premium of £25 to £75 for training, which could last from 2 to 7 years. Meaning only those that had financially well off friends or family to support them, could receive the best apprenticeships.
Huguenot weaver, c. 1790s, © Hamlets Local History Collection
Across Europe the lowest men’s wage was higher than even the best wages for skilled women. For a 15 to 16 hour workday, a woman’s earning power was 1/3 of her husbands. Without an apprenticeship, these homegrown skills could only be used for sewing piecework for the ready-made market. The over-abundance of women in the job market, drove wages down, making this one of the lowest paying jobs.
